Does retinol actually work?

The skincare aisle is overflowing with serums, creams, lotions, gels, and oils that promise to clear your skin and leave it glowing. One very popular ingredient in these products is retinol—which is often referred to as “the gold standard in skincare.” But does science back up the hype?

What is retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A—a vitamin first discovered in the retina of the eye, which is how retinol got its name.

Your body can make retinol on its own by converting plant pigments like beta-carotene (the stuff that makes carrots orange) into vitamin A in the intestine. You can also get retinol by eating foods such as cheese, eggs, and oily fish such as salmon.

But the retinol in your skincare cream doesn’t come from carrots or animal sources. It is usually manufactured in a laboratory to create a form of the vitamin that stays intact inside a jar and still works when applied to your skin.

“Its use in skincare, particularly for treating signs of aging and sun damage, became more prominent around 20 years ago,” says Dr. Gregory S Keller, a plastic surgeon at Keller Plastic Surgery in California.

You may also have heard of retinoids. These are chemically similar to retinol but stronger, which is why they are typically only available on prescription (with the exception of adapalene—an over-the-counter retinoid that is FDA-approved for treating acne).

Does retinol work?

The evidence for over-the-counter retinol-based products is mixed. A 2021 review of nine randomized, double-blind trials—the gold standard in clinical research—found that retinol-containing products showed little to no benefit compared to placebo formulations. The few studies that reported positive results had design flaws: Eight of nine were funded by retinol product manufacturers, raising concerns of bias.

But prescription-strength tretinoin, a stronger and faster-working version of retinol, has stronger evidence. A 2022 review of seven randomized controlled trials found it consistently improved wrinkles, pigmentation, yellowish-looking skin and lentigines (benign, brown, freckle-like skin spots) as early as one month, with benefits lasting up to two years.

Skin experts generally recommend retinol, but suggest managing expectations.

“I always tell my patients that retinol is one of the most effective over-the-counter ingredients for improving skin texture, tone, and overall clarity—but it’s not a magic ‘flawless skin’ button,” says Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist at DermOnDemand in New York. “I emphasize that it’s a long-term investment in skin health, not an overnight fix.”

How does retinol work?

“When we apply retinol to the skin, it undergoes a conversion to retinoic acid which binds to retinoic acid receptors in the skin,” explains cosmetic chemist Leanne King. Retinoic acid speeds up cell turnover, the natural biological process where dead skin cells are shed from the skin’s surface and replaced by new, younger, and healthier cells produced in the deeper layers. This helps to increase skin radiance, reduce pigmentation, and prevent clogged pores.

Retinol also boosts collagen production by stimulating skin cells called fibroblasts to synthesize new collagen fibers, improving skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, says King.

Is retinol always safe to use?

Pregnant and breastfeeding women should steer clear of retinol, says Keller. And if you are taking any medications, King recommends checking in with your doctor first to avoid any drug interactions.

While retinol is not phototoxic, meaning it doesn’t directly react with sunlight to harm your skin, it can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, especially in the first few months of use, says Kopelman. This is why dermatologists insist on sun protection. Vu advises “wearing sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or greater every day, and reapplying it when you are outside for more than 2 hours or after swimming or sweating.”

For those who can’t tolerate retinol, bakuchiol—a plant-derived compound—has emerged as a gentler option, says King. In one study, twice-daily 0.5% bakuchiol cream worked as well as once-daily 0.5% retinol at reducing wrinkles and pigmentation, but caused less scaling and dryness.

Another alternative is defensin-containing skincare. Defensins are peptides that stimulate dormant skin stem cells. According to a 2018 study, they offer many of retinol’s benefits without the irritation, dryness, or increased sun-sensitivity associated with the use of retinols.

Bottom line

So does retinol work? The strongest scientific evidence to date is for prescription retinoids like tretinoin, which consistently improves wrinkles and skin tone. Over-the-counter retinol products have less robust data, but that doesn’t mean they’re ineffective. Dermatologists agree that with consistent and proper use, retinol can help improve skin tone, texture, and overall clarity—though the effects are usually more subtle and gradual.

It’s also important to remember that retinol is “just one piece of the puzzle,” says Kopelman. “The biggest results come from combining it with sun protection, a consistent skincare routine, and realistic expectations.” Armed with this information, you can approach the skincare aisle more confidently the next time round.

This story is part of Popular Science’s Ask Us Anything series, where we answer your most outlandish, mind-burning questions, from the ordinary to the off-the-wall. Have something you’ve always wanted to know? Ask us.